We didn’t set out to find a leopard. But then again, that is the very nature of these elusive creatures—you don’t find them; they allow you to see them. Having watched the trailer for The Leopards of Kwandwe, the words echo in my mind: The elders say that long ago, the spirits of the land gifted the leopard with the ability to move between the seen and unseen worlds.
Yesterday, Dennis, our tracker, shook his head at me when I missed the chance to see a female leopard with her sub-adult cubs. Choosing an extra hour of sleep over a dawn game drive had cost me dearly. With a knowing grin, he had simply said, Wasala Walala—you snooze, you lose.
Determined not to repeat my mistake, I am up before the wake-up call from Danel, our guide. One strong coffee later, we set out into the early morning stillness. The fog lingers just enough to cast a mysterious light over the landscape, an ethereal backdrop to our journey.
It’s a relaxed drive—no expectations, just the joy of being out in the wilderness. An hour in, we have already seen an array of wildlife: waterbuck, impala, bat-eared foxes, red hartebeest, baboons, oryx, a pale chanting goshawk, and even a magnificent martial eagle. A crash of black rhino is an extraordinary sighting in itself. A noisy herd of buffalo cantering off right in-front of us. For many, this would be a safari to remember. But something tells me the best is yet to come.
I marvel at the effortless communication between our guide and tracker. Their unspoken understanding, built on years of experience, is almost a language of its own. Dennis, quiet and unassuming, has already proven himself to be an exceptionally skilled tracker.
We ease toward a ravine when Dennis suddenly signals for a stop. Without hesitation, he hops off his tracker’s seat, eyes fixed on the ground. I see nothing. He sees leopard tracks. A male, he murmurs. Moving north. His energy shifts—calm yet charged with purpose. Then, he looks up and simply says, Listen.
A low, rasping call carries through the crisp air—a leopard vocalising. The excitement is electric yet controlled. Dennis and Danel are in perfect sync, their trust in each other palpable. We turn the vehicle, the smooth precision of their teamwork ensuring our safety while maximising the opportunity for a sighting of a lifetime.
We reach a clearing. Danel brings the vehicle to a quiet, respectful stop. She raises a steady hand and points. Look.
And there he is. The Melton Male. Leisurely. Majestic.
The leopard I hadn’t known I was searching for, whose tracks I could not see, whose presence I had not sensed, is right before me. High on the cliffs, bathed in the first golden rays of the morning sun.
The weight of the moment settles in—humbling, awe-inspiring, unforgettable. Danel calls it in, the radio crackling with swift, professional exchanges between the guides. A message comes through: Well done, Danel & Dennis. A nod to their skill, their patience, and their deep respect for the land and its creatures.
We sit in quiet reverence, watching as the sun crowns the ridge, gilding the treetops in gold while the leopard rests in tranquil confidence. This moment—crafted by decades of conservation, honed by the expertise of those who call Kwandwe Private Game Reserve home—is one I will carry with me forever.
As we drive back home to Ecca Lodge, a peaceful stillness settles over us. The thrill of the sighting lingers in the air, but so does something deeper—a quiet appreciation for the passion that fuels this place. I glance over and see Danel, her hand stretched out into the wind, lost in the simple joy of the moment. She is one with nature, absorbing it, breathing it in. I sneak a photo of Dennis, ever watchful, his sharp eyes scanning the terrain, always alert. And in that instant, the realisation takes root. They don’t just do this for a living. They love what they do.
And that love, that devotion, is what makes this experience truly extraordinary.
We invite you to experience Kwandwe for yourself – get in touch with our reservations team to book your stay with us.